Sewing Project: Scallops in Cotton and Steel (Advance 7831)

 

Vintage Advance 7831 Scalloped Dress Mint Green Sewing Machine
Hi guys, long time no see! I haven’t posted for awhile but that doesn’t mean I haven’t been busy sewing. Today I wanted to share one of my latest projects- a vintage Advance pattern made up in some pretty Cotton and Steel lawn!

Vintage Advance 7831 Scalloped Dress Mint Green Sewing Machine
   I’m usually not one to shop for vintage patterns online, since I already have such a ridiculously large stash of them already that I have yet to make. But when I was searching for a wedding dress pattern I came across this pattern on Ebay and I just had to buy it- I love the scalloped neckline and the fact that it was already my size and wouldn’t require a bunch of grading.

 

Vintage Advance 7831 Scalloped Dress Mint Green Sewing Machine
I’d been eying this mint green lawn ever since I saw the some sneak peeks of the Cotton and Steel collection online, so I knew it would be one of the few fabrics I would allow myself to splurge on. It’s really pretty in person as well and has a nice, lightweight feel that’s perfect for a summer dress.
Vintage Advance 7831 Scalloped Dress Mint Green Sewing Machine

I ended up making a few different changes to the pattern. For one, you can see that I took off the sleeves. I had made the dress with the short gathered sleeves in the pattern photo and even spent some time adjusting them to fit, but once I had the dress together I felt like the sleeves kind of detracted from the scallop neckline detail and vice-versa. I think it would be cute to have either one of those design details but both on the same dress ended up being too much, so I opted to have a sleeveless dress and finished the armholes with some bias binding. I also changed the skirt. The one in the pattern was cute, but it consisted of eight separate gored pieces and I was pretty sure I wasn’t going to have enough fabric if I did it that way. So I drafted my own simple flared skirt to go with the bodice using this simple method. I like how it turned out and the fact that, once again, the simplicity wouldn’t detract from the scalloped neckline.

I ended up having to move the darts down on this pattern to fit properly (thanks to my sewing teacher for pointing that out!). That was the first time I had done this particular alteration and it really helped the fit on this dress. I used the method shown here and it was surprisingly simple. I was debating if I should have tried a full bust adjustment as well. I’ve never done one so I wasn’t so sure. The dress fits my bustline but there is a teensy bit of extra room in the armholes. What do you more experienced sewists think? Should I try that next time?

Vintage Advance 7831 Scalloped Dress Mint Green Sewing Machine
 Pattern: Advance 7831 (vintage)
Fabric: main: Stampede Lawn in Mint by Sarah Watts for Cotton and Steel
lining: lightweight white muslin
 Size: 18 1/2  Bust 38 (vintage sizing)
 Alterations: Shortened hem by 4 inches, omitted sleeves, added full lining (rather than just a facing) and fusible interfacing on the lining around the scallops

 

I wore it for the first time to the Madonna Inn for some breakfast, so of course I had to take some photos! Have you ever been there? It’s kitschy and adorable and reminds me of my grandma Mary Lou, who had a similar love of pink, roses, angels, and general maximal-ism in decorating.
Vintage Advance 7831 Scalloped Dress Mint Green Sewing Machine
Vintage Advance 7831 Scalloped Dress Mint Green Sewing Machine
Vintage Advance 7831 Scalloped Dress Mint Green Sewing Machine
Thanks for stopping by!